Patek Philippe: from elevated tradition to technological horological advancements

The brand’s first new sports model in almost 20 years, the Cubitus, certainly paving the way for a variety of references, alongside use of materials such as denim for straps, including on the iconic Nautilus.

But it’s also recently turned its attention to truly function-forward advancements.

Take the new 5328G-001. An eight-day power reserve reference feels like a departure for the brand, but an interesting departure all the same.

It’s a handsome manual-wind piece – in white gold – given I imagine to the mechanics required to keep a such a power reserve ticking.

The strap helps balance that informality, thanks to the blue calfskin topped with a fabric pattern.

At 41mm it wears true to size if not a little smaller, and feels like something which would both work for wrists of most dimensions, as well as fitting under a cuff with little issue, thanks to the lack of rotor.

It’s a very readable dial, thanks to the large numerals, with the date dial sitting at the six position and the unobtrusive power reserve at 12 with the Patek logo floating within it.

This particular Calatrava’s manual-wound movement is equipped with a Pulsomax escapement in Silinvar, while the entire rim of the round white gold case-middle is adorned with Patek Philippe’s emblematic guilloché hobnail pattern.

But another piece certainly drawing the eye is one of Patek’s latest grand complications.

The 6159G-001 is something to behold, and again, while retain that familiar aesthetic, employs a more modern approach to design.

It’s a reinterpretation of its perpetual calendar, with retrograde date hand in this white gold version.

But it’s the grey metallised sapphire crystal dial which reveals the watch’s mechanical heart.

It’s essentially a smoked piece of crystal subtly showcase the innards, from parts of the movement itself, to the calendar days and dates.

An entirely transparent crystal would have made things cluttered, and ultimately too busy and difficult to read. But while there’s a lot going on with the dial, it’s entirely balanced.

The day and month sit in windows at 9 and 3, with the retrograde date.

The bezel and the caseback are enhanced by the guilloché hobnail pattern.

Patek also now has released its scaled-down Cubitus – putting it firmly in the sights a considerably wider audience, with a smaller case size of 40mm.

In the rose gold iteration on bracelet, it evokes more of the Nautilus than it’s original brother, and feels balanced, both due to the dimensions, and the soft warmth of the precious metal.

But for those after something subtler, that’ll scratch the dress watch itch, fly under the radar (and the cuff), while still being utterly beguiling, then the new 6196P-001 is worth looking at.

Ben Clymer actually said he thinks it’s the best Calatrava Patek has released during his time covering watches, and a understand the sentiment.

It’s a beautiful thing. The opaline rose-gilt dial plays host to charcoal grey hour markers, dauphine-style hands, and a seconds sub-dial. And that’s it.

The manual 30-255 PS movement is housed in a 38mm platinum case, and thanks to that lack of rotor, and dress style of the piece, the comes in just a little over 9mm thick.

On a shiny chocolate brown leather strap, without a deployant as this is a dress watch keeping bulk down, it pops, while not shouting from the rooftops.