Hong Kong Unveils 10 Asian Designers To Watch

Fashion Asia Hong Kong’s showcase 10 Asian Designers To Watch is a barometer of the rising fashion stars in the region.

2024’s ambitious two-fold event was a serious step up from previous iterations. On November 29, the 8th edition—organised by the Hong Kong Design Centre—previewed looks from its latest list of buzzy brands from Japan, Singapore, and Greater China.

One of these is Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata whose brand Setchu is name checked. According to Kuwata, who lives in Milan, the major distinguishing factor that sets Asian designers apart is their ability to tell stories through clothing in a way that feels universal. “There’s a subtle storytelling in how we incorporate tradition—not in a way that’s overly nostalgic—but more in how we reinterpret those elements for today’s world,” he explains. Whether that’s through the use of artisanal techniques or silhouettes, there’s often a “layering of meaning behind the designs.”

Kuwata and his contemporaries, as well as media and other industry figureheads, were flown into Hong Kong to mark the initiative. Fashion Asia, including its forum, was recently brought under the newly rebranded Hong Kong Fashion Fest (formerly Hong Kong Fashion Week), illustrating the government’s ambition to support and promote Asian fashion and design globally.

Phase two took place on November 30: an immersive exhibition staged at the Clockenflap Music & Arts Festival. Inventively blurring the lines between performance and style, the partnership with Clockenflap—which can attract up to 80,000 guests—is a savvy crossover bringing fashion to a wider audience. As well as tapping the party vibe, each designer’s booth incorporated interactive sound diaries while some finalists dressing musicians on stage (such as Setchu which teamed up with local singer Jeremy Lau).

Archive looks from past finalists—such as Shuting Qiu, Feng Chen Wang, Chen Peng, Windowsen, and Pronounce—were also on display for the night. Previous finalists Pond.er also showed their smocked denim designs on live models.

Chinese designer Ruohan Nie—whose brand Ruohan made the list—has been working with luxury retailer Lane Crawford for over 3 years meaning she regularly visits the city. “I believe Hong Kong has the potential to be, and in fact, already is, a great Asian fashion hub. My first impressions were purely business but the more I visit, the more I see the cooler side of the city and its sophisticated, diverse inhabitants,” she says.

With growing recognition of Asian designers in the wider industry, here’s Fashion Asia 2024’s 10 designers to watch.

Grace Ling (Singapore)

Grace Ling (Singapore) Born in Singapore, Grace Ling studied at Parsons School of Design in New York where her brand is now based where her designs have earned her a spot on 2024’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Her sensual designs are stocked at Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom while a long list of A-list celebrities are lining up to wear her clothes. The designer will open a standalone store in New York in 2025 while the 10ADTW showcase is bringing her work to Asian audiences.

Juntae Kim (South Korea)

Following his MA studies at Central Saint Martins, Seoul-based designer Juntae Kim founded his gender-fluid brand in 2022. His novel approach lies in reinterpreting historical women’s costumes as contemporary menswear through the modernization of ancient textiles and techniques. It also plays on stereotypical Asian tropes, and conventional ideas of beauty through an Asian and South Korean perspective. The striking results saw the brand shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2023. The year ahead sees it work with a global shoe brand, prepare for Paris Fashion Week and open the first Juntae Kim flagship store.

KWK by Kay Kwok (Hong Kong)

The contrasts underpinning history and society in Asia are an ongoing source of inspiration for designer Kay Kwok. Through his brand, founded in 2013, he has embarked on an exploration of these differences to explore gender, communities, and the digital realm. Recent projects, including 3D-printed pieces for artists like Beyoncé, illustrate how technology can amplify creative expression. Looking ahead, it’s focused on further exploring the synergy between digital and physical fashion. “We’re working on expanding our “Phygital” approach, where virtual avatars and digital fashion experiences interact with traditional craftsmanship,” Kwok says.

Mark Gong (Mainland China)

Mark Gong is a graduate of Parsons School of Design and launched his label in 2018. His growing legion of fans, humorously known as ‘Gong Girls’ line up for his feminine, modern designs. His recent collection for Shanghai Fashion Week (SHFW) which was shown at Tube showroom took American TV show Sex in the City as its muse.

Oude Waag (China)

Named after a street in Antwerp, Oude Waag was started by Yin Jingwei in 2017 following an education at London’s Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art. Chengdu-born Yin’s distinctive aesthetic is a rigorous dialogue between mind, clothing, and body which lies in the craft of fabric draping. The Shanghai-based brand shows on schedule at SHFW and was a finalist of the Vogue China Fashion Fund in 2023.

Raxxy (China)

William Shen is the mathematical genius behind the innovative brand Raxxy, which he founded in 2020. His distinctive approach reimagines garments as completely new 3D construction incorporating new weaving techniques. Inspired by traditional Chinese culture and the art of bamboo weaving, Raxxy has developed a dynamic 5-D down jacket technique which Shen calls an ongoing evolution. Already the brand has gained critical acclaim leading to a collaboration with Moncler and outings at Shanghai, Paris, and Milan Fashion Week.

Ruohan (China)

Ruohan Nie founded her timeless, craft-led brand Ruohan in 2021 following an education at Parsons School of Design. Within three years, the young designer has created a timeless design vernacular and, with it, a credible business with global ambitions. Ruohan earned a nomination on France’s prestigious award the Andam Prize and is the only label from the line-up that shows at Paris Fashion Week. In October, it released it’s ongoing capsule with Lane Crawford during SHFW.

Setchu (Japan)

Setchu has already secured its fashion credentials by winning the LVMH Prize in 2023 and was founded in 2020 by Satoshi Kuwata. Based in Milan, the DNA is rooted in a fusion of Japanese and Western aesthetics, reflecting precision and fluidity. Kuwata grew up experiencing two worlds: “the traditional craftsmanship and discipline of Japan, and the more relaxed, expressive style of the west.” He tries to bridge these contrasts in his work.

Tanakadaisuke (Japan)

Designer Tanaka Daisuke founded his eponymous brand in Tokyo in 2021 following his graduation from the Osaka Bunka Fashion College. The label’s DNA is founded on elaborate and maximalist embroidery. Each season, the design process takes time to create the ideal environment for its creation. Daisuke explains: “From there, I think about items, clothing silhouettes, and themes, going back and forth between silhouettes, items, and mostly embroidery repeatedly during the creation process.”

Ya Yi (China)

Spanish-born designer Yayi Chen Zhou has divided her time so far between Madrid, Shanghai, and New York. She originally founded Ya Yi in New York in 2022 but it now has its main office in Shanghai. By reclaiming her dual Chinese and Spanish heritage, the brand is pushing the boundaries of fashion—and to great effect. It was a finalist of the LVMH Prize this year and made its runway debut at SHFW this Spring Summer 25 Season.

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